WITH the onset of spring and summer on the horizon, many of us will be thinking about a day out in the stunning countryside of the Yorkshire Dales.
But those picturesque country lanes can soon become a nightmare as traffic descends on the Dales, and what was meant to be a relaxing day trip can leave people frazzled… and that’s before they’ve even tried to find a parking space.
So, what’s the answer? Well, how about going by bus?
If you’re like me, you might not have caught a bus in a long time. Some of us have just become so used to the convenience of our cars. But we also know there are too many cars on our roads, both for the good of the planet and for the good of our sanity when it comes to parking up for a pleasant day out.
Which is what found us on the apron of Ilkley bus station at ten o’clock on a Sunday morning waiting the arrival of the Dalesbus 874 service.
Beginning in Wetherby, the 874 passes through Leeds and Otley before reaching Ilkley. There are two services out and two back on Sundays, but that’s on the winter timetable, which is due to change on April 20 and provide more services.
There were half a dozen people waiting alongside us, mostly with their walking boots on. We weren’t equipped in the same way, intending to have a more placid day out in Grassington.
When the bus pulled in, just a few minutes late (which we put down to the roadworks) we were impressed. A long Yorkshire Pullman single-decker, with comfortable seats.
It was already quite busy, though, but we did manage to get seats at the back after paying our fare — just £3 per person each way, with return tickets available for convenience.
Then it was just a case of sitting back and letting the countryside roll by, with no stress of driving. The bus set off for Bolton Abbey, where we let off a couple of passengers.
There was one hairy moment where the bus had to pass through the ancient stone archway over the road — which was certainly not built all those years ago with the Yorkshire Pullman coach in mind.
The driver had to pull in both wing mirrors and edge through the gap. We held our breaths but seasoned travellers on the bus were used to this somewhat startling manoeuvre, as was the driver. There might have only been room to slide a newspaper page between the bus and the stone but our driver pulled it off with aplomb, and then we were climbing up through some of the most stunning countryside you’ll ever see.
Views like that hit differently when you don’t have to just briefly glance at them as you’re keeping your eyes on the road while driving. From the bus you can drink them in and fully appreciate them.
As we passed Appletreewick and Burnsall, more passengers departed to go on long walks, but we were thinking only of the Sunday lunch that awaited us in Grassington.
We arrived in the town’s National Park Centre at about 11.15am, some 40 minutes after we had departed. And the car park was full, so we felt quite smug in our decision to leave the motor at home.
Grassington is, of course, a beautiful Dales town, where the current series of All Creatures Great and Small, adapted for Channel 5 from James Herriot’s beloved books, is shot. Indeed, some shops — including the Post Office — were dressed for filming, and just behind the small market square you can see the Herriot nameplates on the building that doubles up as the vet’s practice.
The monthly Sunday market was on, offering wares as diverse as cheese, pies and honey, and after treating ourselves we went on to the Devonshire pub in the heart of the village, where our pre-booked Sunday roast awaited.
The Devonshire also doubles up as the Drover’s Arms in All Creatures Great and Small, but on our Sunday visit there was no drama at all as the attentive staff supplied us with drinks in the beautiful dining room, and then brought us out our gorgeous Sunday roasts — beef for me, and a substantial Barnsley Chop for my husband, washed down with a glass of rosé for me and a pint of Timothy Taylors Drover’s Best for him… well, why not? That’s the beauty of not driving.
After that we walked off our substantial meals around the village, called into a few of the shops, including the Stripy Badger bookshop and a little antiques fair that was being held.
We had plenty of time to see the sights and could have walked on to Linton Falls, just a short hike away. But, alas, we had not brought our walking boots, so stayed in the welcome embrace of Grassington’s shops and pubs.
And then it was time for our return bus, and the short 40 minute trip back to Ilkley in the late afternoon, watching the low sun painting the hills and dales a beautiful honeyed gold.
We can heartily recommend the excellent, prompt service of the 874 for anyone who wants to take a trip into the Dales, but can’t face the drive or the prospect of fighting for a parking space. And at £3 per person each way, it makes perfect sense.
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